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Viv Birk's Peruvian Charity Challenge

Read Viv's daily account of his bike ride through Peru


Day 1-From Heathrow to Peru
Day 2-Cusco- first impressions of Peru
Day 3-Machu Picchu
Day 4-First day on the bikes
Day 5-The long and winding road
Day 6-Manu National Park
Day 7-Down to the Amazon
Day 8-The last day of the ride
Day 9-Goodbyes

If you have been inspired by Viv and want to do a charity challenge for Home-Start, find out more here.

See how much money Viv managed to raise for our work supporting families across the UK. Thank you Viv from all of us at Home-Start UK.



bike ride to peru for home-start
8th November- Day 1

We took an early flight to Madrid to board a connecting plane to Lima. At Heathrow, I got my first introduction to the group that were going to be with me for the next ten days. What an unsuspecting bunch of people, not quite the young, fit group I expected!
On the flight to Lima I got chatting to Alex and Sean, two of the guys I felt that I had something in common with (yes, all in the graphic design business, so that must surely count for something?) We finally landed in Lima after 11 hours, and that's where we met the remaining bunch of riders. After collecting our luggage we were met by a rather eccentric man in a hat and multicoloured clothes, Simon our Peruvian expedition leader from Devon, who has been residing in Cusco for the last seven years. We all got onto our luxury coach and headed for our hotel. By the time we checked in and freshened up it was 1am local time! We all met in the restaurant for a quick dinner and then hit the sack.

bike ride to peru for home-start
9th November- Day 2

Not much sleep. 5am flight to Cusco! On arrival in Cusco we were received by the glorious sun. The rays were warm and inviting and it felt like the summer we had missed back home. Cusco lies 3,400m above sea level and was to be a good starting point for our acclimatisation. As soon as we collected our luggage I felt the first signs of altitude. A shortness of breath, a little dizziness and overall I felt quite lethargic. Once we checked into our central hotel we were given a short guide of the city. We walked through the beautiful town square, Plaza de Armas where the whole town congregates. We took a stroll through the hetic bustling indoor market, where we could experience the local delights. Wandering through this great city is a photographer's Mecca: sights to be seen in every corner. We had lunch in a local Peruvian restaurant and all ate as if it were our first meal. The local delicacy is guinea pig! The staple diet is the humble potato of which Peru has hundreds of varieties. The local drink is a Pisco Sour, made with grape brandy, lime juice and egg white, very frothy and yummy.
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bike ride to peru for home-start
10th November- Day 3

Yet another early start, 5am breakfast and left the hotel by 6am for our guided tour of the famous Inca ruins 'Machu Picchu' at 2800m. We take the Peru rail leaving Cusco. The train climbs out of the city at a very slow pace, 30 minutes into the journey the diesel breaks down and we have to wait an hour for the new engine to arrive. By this point it's starting to get warm and we are sitting in a glass compartment. The scenery en route is quite breathtaking and we pass through the spectacular plains around Izcuchaca before dropping down to the famous valley of the Incas. The train then follows the valley down, past the Incan town of Ollantaytambo and continues into the upper reaches of the high altitude town of Aguas Calientes, from where we catch a bus to the Inca site. The ruins are truly breathtaking and even more dramatic than any picture I had previously seen. This awe-inspiring ancient city was never revealed to the conquering Spaniards and was virtually forgotten until the early part of the 20th century when it was discovered by Hiram Bingham. Despite this great tourist destination the site still manages to retain its grandeur and mystery. After spending several glorious hours at the ruins we head back to the station for a one and a half hour journey back to Ollantaytambo for a night in a local hostel. The small town is dominated by a massive Inca fortress, the best surviving example of Inca city planning, with narrow cobblestone streets which have been inhabited since the 13th century.
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bike ride to peru for home-start
11th November- Day 4

Today is our first day on our bikes, and after breakfast we meet up with the truck that is holding the bikes. There is a lot of excitement within the group. After a 10 minute warm up we all saddle up and are on our way. The first part of the ride is a pretty straightforward acclimatisation ride along the beautiful Sacred Valley of the Incas, all on tarmac road. The view en route was beautiful and spectacular. After 20 or so minutes I experienced my first puncture, which was expertly dealt with in a matter of minutes by our trusted mechanics, Huan Carlos and his little brother Xavier. After an hour or so of riding the group had split into 3 - front, middle and back. I quickly picked up pace and thundered ahead to join the group in front and we stayed in this riding position for about 3 hours. We passed through pretty villages like Urubamba, where we stopped to visit the renowned studios of Pablo Seminario and Calca. Back on our bikes I decided to slog ahead and pick up pace with Simon our team leader. We were 12 minutes ahead of the main pack when we heard of the first casualty of the ride. My 'buddy' Sean had hit a sleeping policeman and ended up pretty busted with 3 stitches. We made it to our lunch stop on the banks of the Urubamba River. After a delicious lunch we headed to the market town of Pisac which was two and a half hours away, with head wind all the way - tough!
On entering Pisac we moved through the narrow streets and marched into the local cafe. The towns people were somewhat surprised at the 20 or so riders but welcomed us warmly. We all drank beers and relaxed as we waited for our camp site to be set up. Our campsite was a bit like Butlins and the chefs and porters were all busy preparing dinner. We all gathered and selected our tents and were told we had hot running showers which was bliss and certainly needed. Since we had a couple of casualties, I was fortunate to have my own tent as my 'buddy' decided to stay in the hotel. We all met for beers in the local bar and chatted about the day's events. Lights out at 8pm!
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bike ride to peru
Day 5- 48km

After a hearty breakfast we were briefed on the day's ride. We were split into groups of slow and fast riders with a 30 - minute gap. I opted for the fast group with 4 others. As we left the campsite the first 7k was an upward steep climb on tarmac. With the sun beating down on us, the climb proved to be tough and thirsty work. I quickly pulled away from the few riders in the fast group and kept pace with Simon as we slogged our way quickly up the steep slope. I made it to the first check point in 28 minutes only a few minutes behind the slow group. As we waited for the slow group to catch up we noticed that the road had turned into a fairly smooth dirt track with vertical sheer drops to the right. We all set off together and climbed out of the fertile Sacred Valley in the Altiplano. The communities within this range survive on a thousand or so different varities of potato as well as Llama and Alpaca breeding. The dirt track up to the lunch site was long and tough. As we climbed higher and higher the temperature started to drop. After 20km of climbing we reached our spot for lunch. By the time the last rider arrived he was 43 minutes late! We all tried to get warm in the main dining tent but the wind had picked up and it was slowly starting to drizzle. With a warm soup and chicken lunch we all took a well deserved rest and made our way to the bus which would transport the group the last few kilometres to the top of the pass at 4,236m. When we got to this point it was very cold and the cloud was with us. With a biting wind the descent would not be easy - the track had become more loose and rugged. The downhill was steep at first and we picked up speed and were hurtling down at an alarming pace. Concentration on this stretch was paramount as one could easily be swept off a rather steep mountain! After a couple of hours downhill we reached a small town called Colcuepata. The ride to the town was spectacular and exicting. We finally arrived at our campsite near a deserted hacienda beside a stream and some Inca ruins, at an altitude of 3,285m.
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bike ride to peru with home-start
Day 6- 62km

We awoke early to the sound of birds and the rushing stream, to face our most 'challenging ride'. After a quick warm up we left our campsite and descended rapidly to a town called Paucartambo. It was about one and a half hours of fantastic downhill, wonderful scenery rushed passed as we descended down the mountain. We relaxed and were left to wander the small town and take in the sights. The town itself was well presented and noted for its fair share of festivals, including a Pagan festival, where dancers adorn colourful costumes and exotic masks. We head out of town climbing up the steep pass which is 33km taking us to Tres Cruces. After about 3 hours of riding we were still climbing up the relentless mountain, the terrain had changed from soft dirt track to hard track and was hard on the hands and legs. We finally made it to our lunch site 'Manu National Park' at 3,547m, exhausted and hungry. We mounted our trusted work horses and were told the next part of the ride was a rough undulating track, whatever that means! This was 14km of sheer hell, the clouds settled very quickly and within a few minutes the ride was becoming more and more difficult. Our front suspension was pounding the rocks and my hands were becoming numb with the cold. There was many a corner that I turned and could not see 10ft ahead. It was scary. We had only done 2km as the track was unforgiving and wet with loose scree, huge potholes and now the tracks was climbing uphill. Yes we had our few minutes of thrill as we screamed downhill, but for the next 2 hours it was going to be all uphill. I finally powered my legs to get to the front of the group and slowly climbed through the national park, with the Sierras falling steeply off on our right hand side down to the Amazon Basin. We finally made it to Tres Cruces all very tired but did not relish the idea of camping. The vista from the campsite overlooking the Amazon was truly spectacular. We were given a gastronomic delight for dinner, always by candlelight. Tonight the chefs gave us home made soup, followed by chicken carbonara and chocolate mousse for dessert with mulled wine. We all retired to our tents happy and content.
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bike ride to peru for home-start
Day 7- 63km

We were told that sunrise at the campsite was one of the best in the world, but unfortunately the cloud cover got the better of the mountain, so no beautiful sunrise after all! After pancakes with maple syrup, we headed back over the killer track which we had spent the best part of two hours negotiating the night before, but today we did it in a mere 40 minutes. We waited for the remainder of the group to arrive before the epic downhill into the Amazon. The track from here on in was just as evil as the previous day's ride. We had a quick briefing that we should only ride for 30 minute intervals otherwise it would get too dangerous. The weather had turned and my feet and hands had been frozen for 2 hours now. We were still in cloud cover and it was dark with minimal visibility. As we descended down the rough, rock track it demanded all our strength and concentration as wipeouts were part of the adrenaline rush. Our hands took the brunt of the force, so we had to stop every 20 or so minutes to allow the blood to flow into our hands. The immense forest was magnificent, every inch was covered with tropical plants and trees all jostling for a place on this mountain. We had done about 25k and the clouds had lifted and the warmth of the jungle was very inviting, all steamy and beautiful. We stopped at a pass half way down the mountain, where we allowed the group to come together. We had heard that Will had fallen off the mountain and landed 25ft into a tree canopy that appeared to have saved his life. My 'buddy' Sean who heard his cries for help, waited for the support coach and hoisted him to safety. Danger had now become part of this hellish downhill track and we all felt for Will and hoped that he would make a speedy recovery.
We were faced with 1.5km vertical drops at some of the locations of the track, looking down was very daunting and scary. As we resumed our ride, I felt the first speckle of rain, soft and gentle at first and within minutes it was a torrential downpour. This made the track even more difficult to navigate and opened up sections of the track which were now mud and loose sliding rock. As the rain poured down I hit a rather large rock and lost my footing as I was clipped into my pedals. As I hit the rock I felt a painful tearing sensation in my lower back and realised it was serious and could get worse, so I dismounted and (tail between my legs) got on the support coach and joined Will. It was the worst moment of my trip and I wished it wasn't happening. My back was in agony and I was determined to soldier on tomorrow. We finally made it to our campsite in the middle of the jungle, it was tranquil and peaceful. We ate and drank and sat around our campfire which we had hoped for but missed til now. Fireflies danced the night away providing us with the evening's entertainment.
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bike ride to peru for home-start
Day 8- 65km

Today was the last day of the ride, I wished it wasn't. The day started out dry and warm. We all ate a hearty breakfast and started our ride at 9am which for this group of riders was very late, since we normally started the ride at 6.30am. We slowly made our way down the remaining part of the mountain, I took it easy as I did not want to aggravate my back, so I stayed at the back of the group slowly taking in the beauty of the mountain and the small settlements we passed on the way. The track had now levelled out and we rode on flat track for about 20k before we stopped for lunch at our lunch stop, before continuing on with the last part of the ride. We had started to ride the final 15k of our ride when the heavens opened up and yet again we had to ride in a torrential downpour. Then there was short sharp climb to view the spectacular view point over the Manu National Park, followed by a fast descent to the end of our road to the jungle village of Atalaya at only 750m. Unfortunately when we made it to our jungle retreat, the campsite had been swept away by a torrid flash of water. So our last cycling night was spent in the comfort of a hotel! Thank you God!
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bike ride to peru for home-start
Day 9- Back to Cusco

Today we returned to Cusco back along the road we had just cycled , stopping to appreciate the sheer scale of our travels over the past 6 days. For the next 8 hours I would be sitting on the bus crawling our way up the mountain and I was looking down to see the deep world below. Trust me I did not feel too well. We finally arrived back in Cusco at 6pm, where we would celebrate the journey we have just completed, unfortunately altitude and nausea took the better of me and I retreated back to my hotel room. I awoke to say goodbye to the group and I stayed on a further 5 wonderful days exploring Cusco and Lake Titticaca.
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If you have been inspired by Viv and want to do a charity challenge like this for Home-Start, find out more here.

See how much money Viv managed to raise for our work supporting families across the UK. Thank you Viv from all of us at Home-Start UK.


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